Remote kit moves the filter, bypass adds a filter. Of your using the factory IDI filter, just switch to the PSD filter (FL1995) as it adds a quart of capacity. My buddy bought a Donaldson DBL7405 that supposedly fits our engines. It would add probably 3 quarts to the system, and claims to filter down to 15 microns.

The Donaldson filter is sitting on my workbench and I may try to install it on my next oil change.

 

Okay, the kit from Perma Cool can add a filter. Another reason I wanted to go with a remote kit was I tried to run a longer filter but it didn't quite fit. It was late that day, and I was tired and just wanted to get the truck back on the road after replacing the flywheel and starter so that might have had something to do with it. I still have the filter, so I might try it again.

Thanks for the reply

Joel
norcal

 

The link you provided clearly states filter RELOCATION kit. That means it is used to move the filter from the original spot to a "more convenient" spot, not to add another filter. I have used the FL1995 filter since '08.

 

The auction also says that it is for 2 filters, down where it says oil filter quantity-2. Perma Cool says it is a dual filter remote kit. I cannot find any info saying that the 2nd filter is a bypass or not. I'll try calling them tomorrow and see. It was not my intention to argue, just wanting clarification is all.

Joel
norcal

 

I went back and took a closer look, and your right it does allow for 2 filters. It does look like both filters are in the primary oil line so they both are pressurized and filtering. IMO it's not really necessary as long as you change your oil at recommended intervals.

no offense taken...

 

Okay this is what's gone on. I tried to get ahold of Perma Cool and was waiting for a call back from someone who knew more about bypass filter systems, but I waited all day and no call. Did a whole bunch of other research and am probably going to call Blackstone Labs on Monday, just to see what they've got to say on lube oil filters.

Today, I did manage to get the Motorcraft 1995 filter on there and found out why I couldn't get the other longer filter on. There is a 3/8 hardline that is right up against the front axle, I'm assuming it's a brakeline. It was bent just enough to keep the filter from lining up properly. But I got the 1995 on and no leaks, so I took the Wix gold filter apart with a hacksaw just to see what it looked like on the inside. Couple of small flakes of metal, but I am not convinced they were from the engine. So after having sat for 8-9 months without being started, then having a flywheel and starter replaced and then started and made to haul water 5 days a week, I'd say it's in pretty good shape. And I am happy, very happy that I was able to get the longer filter on there. I was kinda freaking out about that.

I'm curious as to what Blackstone has to say about the soot in the oil on a diesel.
Thanks for the help

Joel
norcal

 

As competitive as the diesel engine industry is and always has been in regards to engine life, you actually think any engine out there was produced with a filter that isn't up to doing a 100% job of catching contaminants? I'd be way more concerned about shortening component life (which has been proven) by burning veg oil.

 

Better filtering means longer intervals between oil changes. Period. And nobody in their right mind is going to try to argue that. An interesting fact, the US Navy doesn't do oil changes on their main engines. They continuously filter it through purifiers until their next dry dock or shipyard period. Granted they had larger sumps and tanks, but the theory still stands. I've heard of guys running different oil filter setups and not have their oil go black which is why I wanted to call Blackstone and see if they had any documentation on the subject.

Running straight ULSD with no additives also tends to shorten the lifespan of things as well. All we can really do is choose the lesser of two evils and right now I'm only burning 5-6 gallons a week of WVO that gets pretty heavily filtered for particles and water before it gets mixed with diesel. And then it gets additionally heated before it hits the injector pump.

The heater actually helps with colder starts on straight diesel too. The coldest it's gotten so far around here is 50f so we'll see how it does this winter.

 

Better filtering means longer intervals between oil changes.

Filtering has nothing to do with the oil change reasons. Oil breaks down over time and if you are not running a synthetic or adding conditioners to the oil you can not just go forever by just changing the filters.

If this is your plan you are going to need a oil analysis every filter change to see what the oil needs and the condition of it.

 

An interesting fact, the US Navy doesn't do oil changes on their main engines. They continuously filter it through purifiers until their next dry dock or shipyard period

That doesn't mean much. At one dealership I worked at years ago we did all the truck work on a major utility companies units. They had a policy of never changing oil in their compact size pickups, only a stock filter change now and then. When they reached either 60 or 80 thousand they were auctioned to the public. It may have penciled out for them but I wouldn't recommend any of us doing the same.

Running straight ULSD with no additives also tends to shorten the lifespan of things as well.

Really? I've got 247,000 miles on my pickup using no additives in 24 years except Power Service anti gel once in a while in the fall during a cold snap when caught with non-winterized fuel. My IP has been overhauled and recalibrated once about 17 years ago due to fueling up in Lander, WY where I'm convinced the underground tank was contaminated with gasoline.
And after working on/driving all breeds of diesels for many years, I think Blackstone will inform you black oil and diesels go hand in hand.

 

That doesn't mean much. At one dealership I worked at years ago we did all the truck work on a major utility companies units. They had a policy of never changing oil in their compact size pickups, only a stock filter change now and then. When they reached either 60 or 80 thousand they were auctioned to the public. It may have penciled out for them but I wouldn't recommend any of us doing the same.

Really? I've got 247,000 miles on my pickup using no additives in 24 years except Power Service anti gel once in a while in the fall during a cold snap when caught with non-winterized fuel. My IP has been overhauled and recalibrated once about 17 years ago due to fueling up in Lander, WY where I'm convinced the underground tank was contaminated with gasoline.
And after working on/driving all breeds of diesels for many years, I think Blackstone will inform you black oil and diesels go hand in hand.

A lube oil purifier is a whole lot more effective than an off the shelf filter. Our version of a lube oil purifier would be a centrifugal type filter. If I were to ever become rich, I'd consider running one. I wasn't able to get ahold of Blackstone today, but will try tomorrow if I have time.

 

An ex-boss of nine was able (using oil analysis, and two filters) to get about 20,000 miles out of an oil change. Running Powerstroke engines about 200,000 miles a year. Couldn't believe it myself, but he did it. The problem with oil analysis is you wait until the next change interval to find out you need to change the oil. Especially when you are running the truck that hard.

 

See that's what I'm trying to find out. I keep hearing stories and reading stuff on these forums trying to find out what's true and what's not. And it's like 50-50 snake oil vs. truth. I've run cheap filters in various gas engines and have had the oil break down faster and turn black faster (gasser engines) than if I ran a better quality filter. Nothing else was changed. So I don't doubt that your boss was able to extend his oil changes. I'm only running maybe 10-12k miles a year, but once a week, sometimes more, it pulls heavy loads.

So why wouldn't a better filtering system on a diesel do the same? whether it's 2 filters or a bypass filter or a centrifuge.

 

Filtering has nothing to do with the oil change reasons. Oil breaks down over time and if you are not running a synthetic or adding conditioners to the oil you can not just go forever by just changing the filters.

Right, Bugman, I remember a factory engine rep giving a class at our truck shop saying that most all normal engine wear occurs from acid dilution of the engine oil.
And black oil means nothing. At one of the first shops I worked in we carried Havoline. It would turn black so quick in gas engined trucks that a time or two we were accused of not changing the oil. However, whenever we tore down an engine that lived on 100% Havoline oil, I remember they were cleaner and more sludge-free internally than most others. Our shop got a trucking industry magazine and it always had an interesting article or two about diesel fuel, oil, or whatever. I remember an oil article and an oil engineer said the black in diesel engine oil meant the detergents and additives were doing what they were designed to do.

 

So then how is it that some guys can safely run longer mileage between oil changes while running dino oil? Because all I'm trying to do here is find out the truth and there's a conflicting answers. There's been two quite conflicting stories just on this thread alone not to mention what the guy at Blackstone said to me this morning.

So which to believe? Where's the truth? What filter micron rating do you guys recommend and is anyone running 2 filters or a bypass filter just wasting their time and money? Or should I just change it at 5k with dino and call it good?

I'm not looking to argue, just looking for factual information that I can at least come close to duplicating on my end. I'm not looking to go 20k between oil changes. I'm just looking to keep as much of the bad stuff out of my oil. And if it doesn't make a difference to the oil, it sure as hell will to the engine at some point.

Joel

 

Even though each engine manufactured uses the same components, I'm not sure each "batch" of parts is identical in material make-up.

Then, are they assembled by machines or humans? How much assembly lube is used by each assembler? Then how many times is it started and ran for just a few minutes before being sold? Once bought how is it driven and maintained. I am willing to bet the fuel you buy in Calif isn't exactly like the fuel you buy in Texas, or Oklahoma.

Bottom line is there are lots of variables that can affect lots of things. And then there is the the guy that says he's gone further, longer, faster...because he wants to be the best.

40+ yrs of wrenching, and building engines has taught me a valuable lesson. Change your oil at recommended intervals and your engine will "live long and prosper".

 

Or should I just change it at 5k with dino and call it good?

That's worked for me for many decades.
And as Chuckster said,

Change your oil at recommended intervals and your engine will "live long and prosper".

 

Interesting, the Blackstone UOA does NOT include pH. Now I'm tempted to dip some new oil as it goes in, and compare it with old oil when I change it.