i would do the intercooler seeing you are already making a intake hat. and you haven't considered mounting the turbo up against the firewall on top of the engine, this is how my banks is, the factory, and hypermax turbos are.

 

At 7 psi you won't need an intercooler.

The IDI will take about 11 psi max without extensive modification.

 

Racinndrummin made a side mount set up

 

it certainly looks like it's in a good position to have an intercooler. can you increase the pressure? an intercooler has some restriction and costs you some boost. it also involves an increased path between the turbo and the intake which increases lag.

 

perfect guys, these are the answers i was looking for. Now my next question has to do with the oil return line from the turbo. Now I'm a N/A 7.3, do i have a CDR valve or is the just for the turbo models? I want to figure out the best way to drain the oil back into the pan. Also we were looking at tapping into the main oil line for the IP, for oil in for the turbo, any issues with that?


Thanks boys, again glad to be here!:ford:

 

The only issue would be that there is no main oil line for the IP. An AeroQuip line should come off a main oil galley for a turbo.

 

Ive really gotta stop listening to people who i think know what they're talking about haha... Assuming make an ass outta you and me is very true i guess lol.
Whats the main hard to rubber line that runs in to the top of the IP? is it a return for fuel?

 

Heres a couple not so great pics of the turbo, for....reference i guess:thumbsup:

 

The rubber line that comes from the center of the IP is a return line. Most of the kits tie into the oil pressure gauge sending unit for oil feed. You do need to remove the CDR from the back of the intake manifold. If you are mounting the turbo on top of the engine then you can use the port that goes into the valley pan for oil return just use a punch and make some larger holes to drain the oil back. You may want to see how much banks or hypermax charge for the CDR brackets and lines needed to relocate the CDR valve.

 

The rubber line that comes from the center of the IP is a return line. Most of the kits tie into the oil pressure gauge sending unit for oil feed.

Is that true? ATS doesn't, they tap a main galley on the D/S down low.

 

And the bad news is- that turbo is not off a 93- it's off a 94 or 95. The wastegate works backwards to what most are used to. It must have VACUUM at the actuator to close the wastegate. No vacuum= no boost. On the Chevies this vacuum is controlled by the PCM.
You will need to rig up a pressure actuator and somehow reverse the lever on the wastegate to be in a normally closed position rather than normally open as it is now.

 

Not too hard to pick up an electronic boost controller, but that will add to the cost of the project.

 

You do need to remove the CDR from the back of the intake manifold. If you are mounting the turbo on top of the engine then you can use the port that goes into the valley pan for oil return

And the further bad news is that's going to be about impossible to do because the turbo housing is missing the casting that bolts in place of the CDR mount like the turbo systems that were designed for the 7.3/6.9's. Fabbing one up would take some thought since that casting supports the entire weight of the turbo assembly. Also there's nowhere on that particular turbo housing that I can see to bolt any kind of a mounting bracket to anyway. There's more to installing an oddball turbo on these engines than like changing a spare tire. The ATS parts list for their turbo that was researched and designed for these engines numbers exactly 50 parts and that's not counting the exhaust pipes and muffler. I sure don't know it all, but I've done a LOT of complicated fab work in the past and in my opinion I wouldn't touch this project with a ten foot pole. I think once you got into it you'll find you're many, many headaches and money ahead by picking up a used ATS, Banks, or Hypermax complete kit and go from there.

 

And the further bad news is that's going to be about impossible to do because the turbo housing is missing the casting that bolts in place of the CDR mount like the turbo systems that were designed for the 7.3/6.9's. Fabbing one up would take some thought since that casting supports the entire weight of the turbo assembly. Also there's nowhere on that particular turbo housing that I can see to bolt any kind of a mounting bracket to anyway. There's more to installing an oddball turbo on these engines than like changing a spare tire. The ATS parts list for their turbo that was researched and designed for these engines numbers exactly 50 parts and that's not counting the exhaust pipes and muffler. I sure don't know it all, but I've done a LOT of complicated fab work in the past and in my opinion I wouldn't touch this project with a ten foot pole. I think once you got into it you'll find you're many, many headaches and money ahead by picking up a used ATS, Banks, or Hypermax complete kit and go from there.

You can make it fit if you want to and keep your 10 foot pole! its called a "PROJECT" for a reason.

 

An electronic boost controller would add to the cost of the project but it would cost less to weld another lever to the wastegate so it works backwards and use a spring loaded pressure activator. Then no need to run vacuum lines and solenoids.

 

On edit, the GM4 does not need a different lever. You could just change the activator and run a boost line to it.

 

its called a "PROJECT" for a reason

Or an effort in futility. It would be a big enough project designing and fabbing all the parts when using a turbo that was designed for the engine let alone one that's incompatable in every way.

 

I wonder what the A/R of that turbo is. If it's vaguely close to what's used on typical IDI turbo kits then it's certainly not incompatible in every way. Boost is boost, who cares how you make it? What you care about is when and how much. It's funny how you don't get this much negativity when you go to do a custom turbo project on a rice burner.

 

The ar on a factory idi is .70 compressor and .82 turbine its a tiny little turbo for the engines size. I just sent my compressor housing out to be machined for a 76mm wheel, its a tight fit to get another turbo in there but it can be done.

 

Hey guys, didnt expect so many replies, you've got a wicked little community going on haha. But I did end up just picking up a 1990 F250 xlt lariat, 4x, 5 spd, 7.3idi with an aftermarket 093 wastegated ATS kit on it for 1500 bucks. Ripping the turbo off and selling it to a buddy for 1500 as a 7.3 N/A. So I get a free Turbo kit, worked out much better than fabbing up my own. I'll throw some pics up this weekend once it's all installed

 

Good for you! The late (093) ATS is a really well-engineered kit. It should include the complete 3" exhaust system so you'll have to bend over the sheet metal body seam around the bell housing area, passenger side, for exhaust pipe clearance. Also you'd be wise to slather any nuts and bolts exposed to severe exhaust heat with NeverSieze, and especially the exhaust pipe that slip-fits into the turbo casting. You'll probably agree with me on that one when you pull everything off the '90.:lol:

 

Yeah well that other turbo is going to be slapped on another ford...just not a diesel:wink2: Im stoked i was able to pick up the nicer of the 3 ATS kits. those bolts are really my only worry. Is the fact that I'm not to sure how the exhaust collector bolts are going to come off. I'm hoping that i won't have to drill out two set of manifolds because of broken bolts. Im just going to soak everything down in penetrating lube and hope for the best. I do have compressed air, but I'm not sure if that'll be too much power and it'll just break them anyway....oh well :icon_cheers:

Any experience on this would be great:icon_wink: Thanks again guys!

 

So the kit has been on for a month and a half or so, still have a leak on the pressure pipe, but boosting about 7-8psi as we speak. The swap all in all wasn't to bad, took 2 days total. 3" DP to straight pipe 5" all the way back with a 6" dynomax tip. Sounds very perty, and when I downshift, sounds like a jake haha, I love it. I had new injectors and a new ip and lift pump done last year, also had the pump tuned up, just not sure how much its advanced. At idle it smokes a pretty consistent black. But I have to say, I definetly love it. Will post some pics along with a vid that I have.

 

heres a few pics:ford:

 

couple more of the exhaust

 

Quick question for the turbo gurus out there my dad is upgrading his tdi witha new turbo and I'll be able to obtain his stock vnt 15 turbo the ar for the compressor is .33 and turbine is .65 I'm not lookin for alot of boost but some is better than none Will this turbo work at all or is it just to small?

 

IMHO, it's a lot more work than what you'll gain. Lots of fabrication involved



Answered on my iPhone.

 

Besides intake and exhauste and oil lines what els is there? I know I have to get a electronic controller for it but it still can't be the 3k that banks charges also I'd be able to get the intercooler too since iv talked him into getting a better one for his my question is that it makes 12-18psi peak (not exactly sure the actual as I don't have boost gauge) and the boost is noticeable at 1500rpm and last to about 4k before it falls flat on it's face lol so what would my 7.3 do to this small turbo would I get more boost or less Im just lookin for a little more efficancy and I'm getting most of this free and would only be tied up on a little bit of steel, some hydraulic line, and a boost controller I can fab so I wouldnt be paying annyone els to do it and I have alot of time lately so I could do it just was wondering if that turbo would work

 

In general, you can make ANY turbo fit with the right amount of materials and fabrication. I have no idea how much boost that would provide but like you said, any is better than none.

 

still have a leak on the pressure pipe,

If you're referring to the slight leak (black soot) at the slip-fit pipe connection on the right side that's normal and nothing to worry about.