Bayonet,
Unless you have changed something in the clutch hydrolic system, I doubt you have gotten air in it. Make sure the level is good though. You do need to check the plastic bushing that the clutch pedal connect to the master cylinder rod through. It is a small plastic bushing that when it wears out, your clutch will not engage as completely. I think you have to get the part from Ford. It has been a while since I bought one but they are only a couple of bucks. While doing it, check the eye of the rod to make sure it is not worn badly or the new bushing will wear out very quickly. Mine also started making a popping sound when steping on the clutch pedal before it finally died.

 

Okay, thanks. I checked the bushing and, if I found what you are talking about, it seems to be in good shape. You mentioned that if I didn't mess with the hydraulic lines that it probably wasn't air in the system. I did have a high pressure power steering hose go bad recently and it was replaced by the Ford dealership. The power steering lines run close to the clutch lines. Any chance the dealership may have messed with the clutch lines and got air in my system? If so, can someone help with a step by step for bleeding the clutch? I'd like to start with that before replacing the clutch.

Also, while at Home Depot yesterday, I started the truck while it was in reverse. With the clutch depressed, it started moving backwards while the engine was cranking and then running. I'm pretty sure it is either a worn clutch, or I somehow got air in my line.

Anyone know how long it takes for a LuK Clutch to get delivered, and how hard on a scale of 1-10 it is to install? I have an autoshop on post that has all the tools I need.

Thanks

 

sounds like the clutch to me... possibly the sync rows are out with the grinding. i had the same problem and i only replaced my clutch thinking it would fix the grinding... nope had to come back out for a rebuild.. the clutch install is pretty easy hardest part is putting the tranny back up in. you might want to drop it yourself and take the tranny into the shop to have the syncs checked out before you put it back in. that way if they are back it will be cheaper from you dropping the tranny yourself

 

Clutch pedal bushing, been down this road multiple times with multiple trucks and if its not that its the master or slave. Your clutch is not throwing out all the way and makes it almost impossible to get into gear. You don't have to drop the tranny to do either one and it won't take you more than an hour tho change the master or the slave

 

Well, after all this, I think it was the bushing. I finally found it and replaced it. It shifted better, but not perfectly, so flush with victory and stupidity, I decided to remove the slave. Once I had it out, the push rod extended and most likely sucked air into the system through the master cylindar fill bowl. I'm a total knucklehead!!! Should have left well enough alone.

So, now I'll have to bleed the system, but I'm going to try it through the bleeder valve on the top of the slave, vice removing the slave and letting it dangle -- that's what kicked my butt today. I also bought new master a slave cylinders today, so if bleeding doesn't work, I'll change both out.

I'm having a hard time figuring-out how to keep the slave push-rod pushed in while installing it -- while preventing air from getting in the system. Any ideas?