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Discussion starter · #21 ·
I also went ahead and picked up a new BPD water pump. The one I have has 180k miles on it, and while I'm 99% sure its fine this is another one of those parts I'm replacing so that the entire engine has the same amount of use on it: none.

To that end, and I'll post a pic or two of this later in the build, I sent my Stage 2 turbo back to KC Turbo to have it gone through and make sure it was in tip top form. It had about 120k miles on it, and KC didn't flinch when I asked about just reinstalling it, but again, I want to start at ground zero with this build. Throughout our discussions they also asked if I'd like to upgrade it to their new Gen 2 Jetfire spec (its a Gen 1), so it should be obvious that I had them do that as well while it was there. KC is another awesome company. I was super happy with the turbo from the day I installed it to replace a failed PMax. In fact the only good thing I can really say about the PMax at this point is that they are cheap. I'll add that you definitely get what you pay for as well. The PMax threw a bolt out of the rear seal plate, which ruined the turbine wheel and eventually caused an oil leak so bad the truck acted like it had a failing HPOP (I had to crank it for like 45 seconds to build enough ICP to get it to start). Once I knew it was basically junk I looked at alternatives and landed on KC Turbos. The turbo they sent me spooled faster and made more power on the top end (literally no downside). I was really happy with it, so originally I was just looking for then to go through it, verify it was okay and send it back, but the ability to upgrade it (for all of $400 I might add) to the new Gen 2 Jetfire spec was too tempting to pass up. KC spent 3 years developing the Jetfire to be even better than the Gen 1. There may be some minor mods to the covers/housings, but the real difference is the wheels are now lighter and an even better design. They stuck with an 11 blade compressor and 10 blade turbine and after exhaustive testing can refute anyone who claims a different wheel design is better. True to form these will now spool even faster and flow even more air. I love the sound of that, and when I got it back I loved the look of it too, because it looks like a brand new turbo. The other thing about it I always loved was the sound. Everyone commented on it whether they were a Diesel guy or not, gearhead or not. It sounded like, well, a jet, hence the name. I'm definitely looking forward to getting it back on the truck and seeing what it can do.

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Looking good....

One thing. I know you know what you're doing and dont need advice from a hack like me......but


Those open intake ports made me sweat....
Put some tape over them....PLEASE!!!
🤣😂🤣🫡🫡🫡👍👍👍
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Discussion starter · #23 ·
Oh don't worry, engine goes in a Moroso engine bag after I'm done working on it. Though, since I don't think I can have the intake on when I install it I will absolutely tape over them to prevent anything falling in there.
 
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What a wonderful thread!

Hope it will be saved for those of us who might need it later on.
 
Discussion starter · #25 ·
Hard to believe so much time has past. I've been mostly caught up with other life things, though I did manage to get the truck up to my shop and start making the push to get the engine out of it. After some research it seems the simplest way to pull the engine is through the front (where the grille is). It requires some additional disassembly of the truck, but seems far easier than trying to get the engine out of a reasonably tall truck. I have a pretty standard engine lift from Harbor Freight that I've used to pull and install many engines. but my F250 I'd bet is taller than all of the vehicles I've done that to thus far. Worth noting that its still stock ride height too. This would be even harder on a lifted truck. I remember my buddy Ed, who worked almost exclusively on 4x4s, letting all the air out the tires a bunch of times to gain the height needed for an engine to clear the radiator support in a truck.

I therefore removed the grille, headlights, & grille support, unbolted the hood latch & removed the release cable routing clips so the latch could be tucked out of the way, removed the AC condenser (my AC was not charged so I could just unbolt it, if yours is charged get the refrigerant pulled before doing this), removed the intercooler (CAC), removed the trans cooler, removed the starter, and removed the radiator support tie bar. I am told the hood does not need to be removed, so I left it in place and it still closes and stays closed with just the struts connected. I also don't believe the bumper needs to be removed either. I've seen pictures of guys who did it both ways (bumper on and bumper off). It looks like the height the engine needs to achieve to clear the crossmember is going to put it within a couple inches of clearing the bumper anyway, so I'm going to at least try it with the bumper on.

For lifting I'm making up a plate that bolts to where the turbo pedestal installs. There are hooks you can buy from eBay for this for like $69, or FCIMrepair.com has a really nice one, but its $389 (you can rent it for 30 days for half price). I'm confident I can make one as nice as the FICMrepair.com one for about the price of the eBay one. The issue with the simple hooks is that they have no adjustment for engine attitude. The turbo pedestal isn't really centered on the engine, and the balance point would be different depending on what all is still bolted to the engine. Having adjustment will mean a lot less trying to pull and tweak a 1,000lb engine as you try to get it into the truck, get the trans and motor mounts lined up, etc.

Anyway, at this point all that's holding the old engine in is gravity. I removed all the bellhousing bolts, torque converter bolts, and motor mount bolts. The converter bolts are a bit tricky because they are accessed through a rubber plug in a hole right behind the oil pan in the engine's rear cover. There isn't a lot of room to work in there, and a deep well socket is too long, while a standard socket is too shallow. I have some intermediate length sockets, but they are only 1/2" drive and the size of the ratchet and socket was too large and cumbersome to get in there. Ultimately I dug into my spare socket bucket, found two 14mm shallow sockets, cut one down to being only 1/2" tall (keeping the drive end only), and welded that 1/2" extension on the back end of the other socket Total length was about 1-1/2". That worked just fine. In fact, as the nut was almost off I transitioned to a standard depth socket to finish the job, while avoiding pinching the ratchet against the oil pan. Just one more tool for the drawer of 6.0 specific tools.
 
Discussion starter · #26 · (Edited)
I finally got the tins done. I had the valve covers and oil pan powder coated semi-gloss black. I coated the interiors with Glyptal, because after blasting for powder coat they were partially raw metal. I didn't want to risk powder coating the interiors (though I'm pretty sure that's what International did), but I also didn't want to leave them raw steel where they could rust. Glyptal is what I've used to seal the interior of engine blocks for 3 decades. I've yet to see it peel or flake off. I bake the parts at 200 degrees for 2 hours after letting the Glyptal dry for 24 hours. Years ago I bought a crab pot that uses a propane burner and substituted the pot for a steel trash can. By using some 1/4" bar stock I can hang anything (including an engine block) inside the can and then I just cut some notches in the lid, so it still fits tight, and installed a grill thermometer in the lid to monitor the temperature. It takes some fiddling to get it to hold a steady 200, but not that bad. Here's a shot of the engine with the tins in place:

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You can also see the lines from my Driven Diesel Return Regulated Fuel System Mocked up in that last shot. Here's a close up of the valve cover. If you like the emissions decal I got them from OBS Ford Decals off eBay. Really good quality and a perfect reproduction. Here's a link: ENGINE Emissions Decal International 7.3L 6.0L Powerstroke Truck 1994-2006 | eBay you just have to select the year. I got two as I am now running two RH valve covers so I can run the HPODS (more on this later). I used Ford gaskets and new hardware.

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Here's a close up of the oil pan where you can see the two 3/4" NPT bungs I welded in for oil drains. I chose to weld them from the inside so you can't see the welds. The fittings are just Fragola Performance 3/4" NPT male to -12AN male adapters with -12 AN caps. These came from Summit Racing and the weld bungs I got off Amazon.

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You can see where the Glyptal in the pan went a little over the edges in this picture. You can also see one of the Fumoto drain valves I installed in the block coolant drains. On the LH side I used an F-108N which is typically recommended. I chose to try a different valve on the RH side, because based on previous experience the F-108N had issues with the starter. It could be installed, but required a hose that had to go up over the starter, which IMO wasn't ideal. This is an F-108SX which has the same size thread and seals the same way, but uses a banjo bolt, so the discharge is 90 degrees from the hole. The I added a Fumoto SL-10 adapter so I can run a short length of hose down to a point where it would easily drain into a drain pan. I'll sort that out and route it once the engine is installed along with the starter.
 
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I have a question hopefully u will respond I have a 05 6.0 and I need a new injector and it is the exact same as urs but I can’t find exactly where to get one do you have link of were than
 
Once the heads were installed I went ahead and installed all new Motorcraft GPs. I also installed the injectors, which are RCD 175/30s. I sent them back to RCD to have them cleaned and tested, and they came back looking brand new with a clean bill of health. Here's one of them prior to installation:

View attachment 189403

Its worth noting that I put some clean engine oil on the white and black o-rings prior to installation. I also put a little grease on the blue o-ring for the connector (it makes removal easier I've found). I have the older T-40 hold downs. I cleaned them all up and installed them with the injectors. I torque these to 31 lbs/ft., which is more than the original spec, but Ford revised that due to some coming loose. I've installed T-40 hold downs with this torque for 10 years and never had an issue. Of course, I put a little oil on the threads so the reading is accurate. Here's a pic after they were all installed.

View attachment 189404
Have a question about that injector I have the same ones and I need a new one do you know exactly what they are and brand or are they stock I am not sure but I need help I have the same ones
 
Discussion starter · #29 ·
A couple of things. First, looks like you are new here, so welcome! Second, you'll get better responses if you start your own thread, or you can always PM guys like me and bismic directly. Third, if you have a single injector that's bad I would advise you to replace at least the 4 on the bank with the bad injector, but really I would replace all 8. My reasoning is simple, its a fair amount of work getting to the injectors. Swapping a set of injectors in about a 4-5 hour job for me, and I've done it several times. All the injectors are likely the same age. If one is bad now, how long before the rest follow? Ideally injectors are also a matched set, though if you are just swapping out stock ones it less important than with aftermarket ones.

As far as buying new ones, I have been buying larger injectors from RCD. I feel they have first rate quality, and they stand behind their products. Here's a link to their reman injectors from Alliant Power:


I believe that to be a good price, especially for the quality AND considering the 2 year warranty. If you need anything else feel free to PM me.
 
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A couple of things. First, looks like you are new here, so welcome! Second, you'll get better responses if you start your own thread, or you can always PM guys like me and bismic directly. Third, if you have a single injector that's bad I would advise you to replace at least the 4 on the bank with the bad injector, but really I would replace all 8. My reasoning is simple, its a fair amount of work getting to the injectors. Swapping a set of injectors in about a 4-5 hour job for me, and I've done it several times. All the injectors are likely the same age. If one is bad now, how long before the rest follow? Ideally injectors are also a matched set, though if you are just swapping out stock ones it less important than with aftermarket ones.

As far as buying new ones, I have been buying larger injectors from RCD. I feel they have first rate quality, and they stand behind their products. Here's a link to their reman injectors from Alliant Power:


I believe that to be a good price, especially for the quality AND considering the 2 year warranty. If you need anything else feel free to PM me.
Thank you
I ended up pulling plug I got 175/30 holder reman injectors I got fass220 no drop kit and tuner and custom tunes hopefully everything goes good waiting for holders to finish rebuilding and sending out
 
Discussion starter · #31 ·
Thank you
I ended up pulling plug I got 175/30 holder reman injectors I got fass220 no drop kit and tuner and custom tunes hopefully everything goes good waiting for holders to finish rebuilding and sending out
I hope you've already done head studs and all the related work.
 
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