From Autometer's website:

The pointer will move backward to the stop pin and then display actual temperature. This procedure is an auto-calibration function and is performed on every power-up. While this test is being performed, the gauge may make a clicking sound. This is normal.

NOTE: When the ignition is off the pointer may not always rest at zero.

 

I have the Autometer "Z series" Pyrometer in my truck. It never reads "zero", never has.

With the key off, my pyro' indicates somewhere between 100° and 200°. After sitting over night (engine stone-cold), key on: it will read somwhere between 0 and 100. Also, mine does not go through the "calibration" routine either, not all gauges do that.

After a short drive, then sitting ideling, mine reads 300°-350°F, depending on outside conditions. That's pretty normal. There was a Banks pyro' in my truck before, and it indicated the same.

I wouldn't worry to much about it reading zero, as long as it is reading fairly accurately at the higher-end temperatures. What does it read when you on the hi-way, cruising along at, say, 60-65mph? You should be seeing temp's of ~500°-750°F then. What's your temp do under hard acceleration? You should see ~900°-1100°F, maybe higher if your running performance mod's.

The fact is, type-K thermocouples (that's the "sensor" in the exhaust) like to operate at higher temperatures; that's where they are most accurate. The same goes for your pyrometer gauge. It's simply not designed to be super-accurate between 0 and 100-150°F.

Again, don't worry to much about it's accuracy at '"zero"...just as long as it's reading correctly at 1000°!

One last thing: Where is your thermocouple (sensor) mounted, pre-turbo or post-turbo?

From Autometer's website:

The pointer will move backward to the stop pin and then display actual temperature. This procedure is an auto-calibration function and is performed on every power-up. While this test is being performed, the gauge may make a clicking sound. This is normal.

NOTE: When the ignition is off the pointer may not always rest at zero.

Not ALL Autometer gauges will go through the "auto calibration" function.

Your fuse panel will be different so I don't know which one you would use but I do know that the power to the gauge(s) HAS to be "on" when the key is in the run and start position. If you hooked the power up to a spot that only has power in the run position and not the start position, then thats more than likely your problem..

That shouldn't matter. As long as you have power to the meter in "run" position, you're fine. Many dash-gauges are not powered in the "start" position.

 

See that what I was thinking but mine never goes back to zero. The first gauge i had went way past zero actually pointing straight down and now this one when I hit the key the lowest it goes is 100 degrees. So I think this one is reading a 100 degrees high.

 

I have an autometer C2 Gauge and it never reads 0. It will be at whatever temp it was at when I shut the truck off and then when I turn the key on it will go to the stop tab and then come back up to the temp it is. My truck hasen't been started in a couple of days and I just walked out and turned the key on. It was at 300...went to zero and back up to 90 degrees, it is currently 70 degrees ambient. Lots of times it will be at 400 after a drive and then settle down to 350 after about 10 minutes of idle.

 

That sounds a lot like mine but it will never go back to zero it just drops to around 100.

 

Are you positive on how the gauge is hooked up? The power to the gauge has to be only there when the key is on and in the start position. If the power is cut off when your trying to start it.. it may go back into calibration mode.

 

I don' quite remember which wire I used but when i was testing the test light only came on when I turned the key on. So I figured that was good enough. I there a better wire to hook to?

 

Your fuse panel will be different so I don't know which one you would use but I do know that the power to the gauge(s) HAS to be "on" when the key is in the run and start position. If you hooked the power up to a spot that only has power in the run position and not the start position, then thats more than likely your problem..

 

When I turn the key on and don't start it, it has power to it. If the gauge is showing 300 degrees and has been sitting overnight or for hours and I then turn the key on but don't start it, it will go back to about 100 degrees but never goes to zero. I never see the bounce to 0 and back up.

 

You got me...I would make sure that the power is hooked up the way I said it has to be and then maybe Autometer will exchange it.

 

it just sucks because this is the second one that has not seemed to work right.

 

Your reading are pretty close to mine. I was just concerned because it never seemed to go through the calibration mode. My probe is pre turbo and I guess if it is reading a little high then that is better than low.

 

What model or "type" is your gauge (Like mine is a "Z series", and the other guy had the "C2"), what is yours?

 

Its called the carbon fiber ultra-lite series, type K.

Auto Meter Carbon Fiber Series Full Sweep Electric Pyrometer (EGT) Gauges

 

Its called the carbon fiber ultra-lite series, type K.

Auto Meter Carbon Fiber Series Full Sweep Electric Pyrometer (EGT) Gauges

Well, if it's hooked up correctly, you should be fine. According to the instructions, your unit does not go through the "auto-calibration" thing like the C2 model does.

Here are the instructions for the "Carbon Fiber" and the "C2". Down towards the bottom of the page (on the C2), there's a note about "power-up" , but nothing about it on yours.

C2: http://www.autometer.com/productPDF/0593A.pdf

CarbonFiber: http://www.autometer.com/productPDF/1129A.pdf

 

Great thanks for taking the time to search these out.