You will continue untill you actually change the sensor/valve.since cleaning it only temporarily helps.

 

Provided nothing is actually stuck in the valve you could replace the screen and o-rings which are available. Since the engine is back together and I assume that you replaced the screen in the bottom of the oil cooler reservoir, you could find a hose that fits in the threaded part of the IPR bore in the HPOP cover... a hose/tube long enough to place into a drain pan. Crank the engine and pump oil through the tube in an effort to flush out the passage. It's worth a try... Typically when this happens it usually requires a new IPR.

If this is the case here a little advice to those following this: When replacing the oil cooler and you have the intake manifold off, clean around the oil cooler before even removing the bolts. Road debris like dirt and sand likes to collect along the edges of the cooler housing and if not removed, that debris falls into the reservoir where it can end up in the HPOP feed.

How to clean? Scrape along the edges and crevices with a small tipped screwdriver or pick to loosen the debris and then use compressed air to blow it away BUT MAKE SURE YOU COVER THE INTAKE PORTS ON THE CYLINDER HEADS or you will blow debris into the cylinders. Masking tape is perfect for this. While we are talking about the intake manifold, use compressed air along the sides to blow away the same road debris before removing the intake. I also use Brakleen or Simple Green to degrease the area if there is an oil film still holding onto some dirt.

Also, Many guys will also be replacing the HPOP outlet fitting (STC fitting) when doing coolers. With the pump out you can effectively clean out the oil passage from the reservoir to the pump and further reduce the possibility of debris getting to the IPR.

REMEMBER TO WEAR SAFETY GLASSES WHEN USING COMPRESSED AIR! :5:

 

Very good write up and also remember to follow the procedure after the job to make sure all the air is out which if not done correctly can result in hard starts for a long period of time which is hard on the batteries, ficm, injectors and other items. This process if not done WILL result in unnecessary wear and year leading to costly repairs.

 

I did just that when I pulled the intake to change the cooler, not saying that I didn't get dirt in the area as it is possible all I'm saying is that I took the measures to avoid this and still am having problems. This will be my second valve I'm installing. When I take the valve out and clean the screen it seems like their is nothing on it. I can get the oil off it and hold it to the light and see light through. I know they say they are finikey but to the point of what? I guess I'm going to pull it and pump oil out the hole like you say ford doc then change the oil again! The wife wont even drive it anymore. Every time iI talk about buying a part she just gives me the look! (*)(*)

 

Also my truck is a late build 04. It has the cast cover and ICP on the valve cover. This truck dose not have an stc fitting or am iI wrong???

 

Pulled IPR again and same thing screen sucked in and fine particas on it nothing big just sludge I guess. So here's what I'm doing..... I cleaned the valve and if I have to buy a new IPR then so be it. I pulled the screen off and put the valve back in and I know some of you guys will call me crazy but iI tried it like that and so far its staying running and my plan is ordering another valve draining the oil and buying a couple screen kits. I'm gonna clean this valve again when the new screens come and keep doing so till it craps out then replace with the new one. I hope this solves the problem.... and for anyone reading this take the techs advice and clean, clean, and clean some more before you pull the oil cooler as I'm sure that's where I introduced all this crap into my system...... I will keep you posted as it continues but so far she's running darn good thanks for the info guys

 

Whenever I'm into one of these engines to have the oil cooler and HPOP out for whatever reason, I always use compressed air to blow out the passage under the oil cooler to HPOP inlet channel so as to avoid the very scenario described by the OP.

 

So should I tear it back apart and try to reclean everything? I did clean it well and use shop air to blow it out.Can a guy pull the valve and flush this system some how?? Maybe change oil and keep filling it till its clean or something?? II'm ordering a couple more screen and a new valve. It runs fine but after an hour of running it just won't no more it just dies. I pull the valve and clean it with carb cleaner and shop air reinstall it and it takes back off again.

 

Sounds like pie is faulty , replace it , there shouldn't be that much trouble even with the screen issues , sounds more electronic

 

So your thinking just replace the valve again even though it works after I clean it? Also iI found that iI may have the wrong oil cap on this. They say it looks like a wix aftermarket so iI am going to pick up a ford oem one.

 

My thought is the valve is sensitive or week, when you clean it -it works until the least amount of pressure allows it o malfunction , I have never replaced one at 190 k so I don't know how much it is but sounds like the culprit

 

They are about 175 at tousley. I just replaced mine

 

Cowboy is their any truth to the oil cover being to big? Mine is real tall as a ford one is alot shorter..??

 

What oil cover. The one for the HPOP. Not sure i understand the question

 

I agree with ford doc. However you may not have a screen now. That may be what your seeing. I have heard that sometimes the screen is not installed correctly for one reason or another and it gets shredded and you find the debris in the ipr valve screen. I don't know if this is reality but I have been told that I can happen. Ford doctor might be able to confirm it one way or the other.