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P0741 code & solenoid pack

5.2K views 5 replies 2 participants last post by  bryansr  
#1 ·
I have an 02 F250 7.3 80k miles which has started shifting really hard at times, then shortly after that the OD light starts flashing. I’ve rarely driven it until I could get it checked out. Recently, a friend pulled P0741 code with his Innova 3160 scanner, but I still wanted to have it checked by a transmission mechanic, so we cleared the code and waited for the OD light to flash again. Until dropping it off at the shop last week, I’d been researching the code and it seems a new solenoid pack is curing most of the problems. I got it back from the shop, who also got a P0741 code, they said the “TC wasn’t locking up”, and between $1,200 and $1,400 to fix it. This would include a new torque convertor, rebuild the valve body, new springs in the pump, clean the accumulator, and a flush and filter, but nothing about a solenoid pack. Does that make sense?

If possible, I would like to fix it myself and found a procedure to test the solenoid once I can remove it, but don’t want to start something I can’t finish. My thought is to drop the pan to see if there’s any chunks or filings in it, check the resistances on the solenoid pack, and check the harness for damage. Is that the right approach? If nothing’s in the pan, is that a good indicator that there’s no hard damage? I appreciate any input or suggestions. Thanks, Bryan
 
#2 ·
The solenoid is most likely fine. The definition of the code is poor. What it means is that the PCM did not see any RPM drop when it commanded the solenoid on. It did NOT see an electrical issue with the solenoid. It most likely is a failed convertor, but it could be a valve, solenoid, wiring, or pump issue.
 
#4 ·
After posting yesterday, I cleaned the plug out, coated it with dielectric grease, plugged it back in and took it for a spin. No difference, still shifting hard and erratic. So today I drained the fluid and dropped the pan. Other than a little sludge on the magnet, there was nothing else in the pan. Guess that's a good sign. Bad thing was I broke 2 of the pan bolts off. I tried removing the solenoid pack, but it was not coming out. Made sure all of the bolt were out and kept trying to wiggle it around, no luck. Even pushing on the connector while pulling underneath, no luck. I tried lightly using a pry bar and broke the connector off of the solenoid body, so I'll get a new one anyway now. It took a pair of channel locks and a lot of wiggling to get the solenoid connector out of the trans body.
 
#5 · (Edited)
I had the solenoid resistance checked and it was bad, so I wasn't out anything from breaking it when I took it out.

But I have a question I hope someone on here can answer. When I removed the connector plug with the channel locks, I accidentally tore the gasket in the area around the solenoid plug hole. Nothing is missing, it's just that the really thin gasket tore out to the rear side of the solenoid pack, and not across any of the channels on the top side of the block. I really don't want to remove the valve body if I don't need to. Does it need to be replaced? It appears that if it didn't go across any channels, it shouldn't affect anything. Any input appreciated, thanks in advance.
 
#6 ·
I ordered a solenoid from eBay and started to install it last night, and realized the torn gasket should be replaced. I thought the tear was in an area that achieving a sealing wasn't important (from the plug opening directly to the outside), but it appears to cross a solenoid channel, so I now have few more questions:

1) How difficult is it to remove/reinstall the valve body, accumulator and whatever else is necessary to replace this gasket?

2) Any small parts that are difficult to get back in or special tools required?

3) Is there anything I should do to it while I have the valve body/solenoid/accumulator off? I'm not looking for extreme performance upgrades, I just want to get my truck back on the road and dependable.


Thanks,
Bryan