Is that Delo 15W40 conventional or 5W40 Synthetic?

If synthetic, it is comparable to T6 and a fine oil.

If conventional it is still a fine oil to use in milder climates.

Mike

 

Talking about the Delo 400 LE 56 and Mobile 1 Synthetic, depending on which one I can find on sale for the $19.99 price. At $19.99 reg price at Walmart, the Delo might become my new oil.

 

As Mike said, Delo is a very good oil. I am using the syn 5w-40 and tow all the time in the mountains with doubles and it has had good oil sample reports. I changed from 15w-40 so I don't have to change over in the winter.

 

I know frugal is good, but are you really going to worry about $1.75 a gallon?

 

$1.75 per gallon turns into $10 when you buy 8 gallons at a time. Remember I am maintaining 2 of these trucks. at 3-4 changes per year, that can be $30 to $50 dollars in price difference if I do not find the best deal.

That is why I asked for opinions on oil. If it where not a god oil, I would not be worried about the difference. Being that it is a comparable oil to what I have been running, might be worth the switch, or at least a substitue when I can't find T6.

Before I switched to synthetic, I can Valvoline Blue 15W-40 Conventional Oil once... after 3000 miles, I started having stiction issues really bad. I did not ask opinions before using that oil, and I will never do that again. After 3 oil changes with Hot Shot Secrets ($150 in HSS for those changes) and a new set of injectors 18 months later, I want to get other opinions on oil before just assuming it is a worthy product.

 

I would run the rotella t5. 10w30. People have been getting great uoa's with it even towing heavy. It has the same cold poor point as the. 5w40. I switched to it and like it. It's 15 bucks for. 5 quart jug at Wally World. Dello has good reviews too though. I wouldn't hesitate running it. Really your not really a different oil between the partial synthetic or full synthetic any how. Only amsoil and redline are even true synthetics any more. Still doesn't mean that the others arnt good. Give the rotella t5 a try. You will save more coin and I think it's every bit as good of oil if not better than the t6. There are quite a few threads on the T5 now and I've only heard good things

 

Just in the last 2 days, the price of Rotella T6 at Walmart has gone from $21.74 to $23.91, according to the Website. Theis makes the Delo more appealing.

I will consider the Rotella T5, it is a thought.

 

T6, run it 10k then change it, get oil test done they say no problems no signs of wear, keep it up. On edit, just ran 1200 mi. at 20 hours, never saw oil temp over 205 going 70 and when I went down to 65-66 my temp was 199 consistently. Not pulling and hand checked I got 18.3 mpg not bad.

 

The 5w40 Delo 400 ran great for me. One of my "go to" synthetic oil recommendations. Just run what you want for synthetics. They all have their own detergent package and I for one don't see any problems switching around oils. I say this as I just turned 281k w/5840 motor hours on my 2006 F350 still using the original injectors. YES the original injectors. I've used more than once just about all the synthetics out there for sale. Even ran the old version of the Rot T6 before they changed it up.

I for one notice a longer crank time when using T5 10w30. Now mind you that "longer crank" was maybe 2-3 seconds difference but I did notice it.

 

What about fords motorcraft brand? I usually stick by the books on my filters, chevy delco, dodge mopar, ford mortorcraft. I checked out the prices today and they are all pretty close to the same price unless your getting royal purple.

 

" I say this as I just turned 281k w/5840 motor hours on my 2006 F350 still using the original injectors. YES the original injectors."

I remain in awe of this.
I have customers that use synthetic, and have since early on, and none of theirs has gone past 150K without serious cold running issues that resulted in injector replacement. No, they didn't go with extended change interval even though using synthetic.

 

The 10W30 oil thing is understandable. The idea is that the 40W oil shears down to a 30W anyway. Upon investigation it seems that the 40W oil is really a 30W oil with a thickening agent added. The thickening agent in raw form looks like a block of plastic that they shear (that's right) into the oil. So it really isn't surpising that it continues to shear into the oil inside the engine. OA I've seen would indicate that the 30W oil does not shear down to a lower weight (e.g. 20W). So, the theory that the oil turns into 30W anyway, so just give it what it wants seems valid.

However, on a counterpoint, the engineers who designed the engine must know as much about oil as guy who can work Google. They must be aware of this phenomenon, and still spec'd a 40W oil.

The 15W40 vs. 5W40 isn't a debate. Ford revised their recommendation for oil to 5W40 for most temperature ranges.

So now the question is which 5W40? To me, once you are running a synthetic it really doesn't matter. I run the T6 because I can buy it at NAPA, and I don't pay $20/gallon for it, more like $17. I've been very happy with the performance of the oil and see no need to change.

I love Amsoil, and am a big believer in their products, but the cost for an oil change using their oil would be absurd. Its one thing to run 5 quarts of it in a car I drive 1,000 miles a year, its another to run 4 gallons of it in a truck I drive 20k a year or more.

 

Tom, how are you getting T6 at $17 a gallon. I am getting at that now from Amazon, but never seen it for that price in a parts store. If they are $20-$21 a gallon here that is on sale.

 

Tom, there is a lot of people who consider Amsoil overrated. What do you like about their product?

 

I've been going to the same NAPA since before I could drive. My father went there. Our family business went there. I send a lot of people there too. I get a really good discount on everything. I was in there with my kid one time and he really wanted one of the big NAPA truck toys they had on the shelf. Trying to teach the boy that he can't get everything he wants by whining about it I told him he had to wait for Christmas. I buy my stuff and leave and no sooner do I have him strapped in the truck then he owner comes outside with the NAPA truck and says "hey, you forgot this". I don't know what that thing cost, but its about 1/8th scale and makes noises, etc. My son loves it.

I've run Amsoil in several different vehicles, in the engines, transmissions, and rears. I had a transmission I had to tear back down again and I played hell trying to get the oil off the parts. Nothing wanted to take it off, not my parts washer, not brake cleaner. Also, as it turned out, there was no problem with the trans and all the bearings looked brand new after considerable milage.

As for engine oil I've run it in vehicles that got down to less than half of total oil volume. We won't get into how that happened, but it did. After over 100k on one of them there is still no appreciable wear in the engine. Anything that can do that gets my vote. Also, the oil always seems to look cleaner on changes, and I've extended the change interval to 8k, and could probably go even longer. They claim up to 25k with a filter change at 12.5k. I definitely would not try that without OA, but I don't discount it either.

 

In reference to amsoil, I am not sure about 25k oil change intervals. I did it once when I was still nieve with no adverse effects that I could tell. I will say that they claim their oil shears less over the same interval than competing brands. Truth, I don't know. If it is, is it enough to justify the cost of the oil, don't know that either. I will be sticking with the shell and chevron synthetics for now.



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Crap, i knew my decision to run Mobil 1 - Turbo Diesel Truck 5w-40 and subsequent "inner harmony" wouldn't last...




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So no one uses motorcraft oil in there FORD... After all of these discussions I break it all down to just personal preference now.

 

Thinner oil for cooler climates, thicker oil for warmer climates...synthetics if u have a money tree in the back yard.

 

That is what I was doing-2 changes a year because of our cold winters (10w-30) and towing all summer(15w-40).
Now I use 5w-40 all year so I only change oil once and am saving money!

 

Next question, assuming 5w-40 synthetic:

What change interval are you guys doing?

1) non-towing
2) towing

Is 10,000 miles ok for non-towing?


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That is what I was doing-2 changes a year because of our cold winters (10w-30) and towing all summer(15w-40). Now I use 5w-40 all year so I only change oil once and am saving money!


I'll try 5w-40 on my next oil change. The only thing I was thinking was the cold startups during the winter getting that thick oil moving around. I suppose if u have a block heater everything should be up to par tho. So 10,000 miles on everyday riding should be fine with diesels? Synthetic or not?

 

Wut the fella above said, sorry man I didn't see you question.

 

Dillion, most people on here still subscribe to the 5k interval due to the 6.0's shearing effect on oil. I'd suggest you get a bypass filter, and do OAs for awhile. I've found that my oil stays a 40 weight as far along as 7500 miles. However, due to the ease of doing my maintenance schedule in kilometers, I actually change my oil every 10 000km/6250 miles.

Texas, even in warm weather, the lower viscosity the oil, the better it is for your engine on start-up. The engines were designed with specific tolerances so that at operating temperature, a 40 weight oil would lubricate everything effectively. As your oil gets progressively colder beyond this point, it is unable to get into more and more of the tight spaces and not lubricate effectively. These means more engine wear over the long term, especially if you truck goes through lots of on-off cycles. So the lower your oils viscosity, the better it can lubricate immediately after start up.

 

Without OA I would never extend the change interval. I run T6 5W40 and change it every 5k. The bottom line is that oil is cheap, engines & injectors are expensive.

 

I hear ya but i though that part of lure of Synthetic was extended change intervals?

I guess an ounce of prevention (or 15 quarts in this case) as the saying goes...


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Part of my thoughts on OAs is that you'd have to do one fairly often to assess shearing if you are attempting to see how long you could stretch out an interval. If you managed to double your interval to 10k, but spent as much on OAs as you would have on oil, is it really worth it to stretch it out? Maybe it is better to just do OAs once to determine a safe interval regardless of whether you tow heavy or drive like a granny, and change it there?

Most people who run synthetics run them 5k. I run mine 6250, and some people run them as much as 7.5k. I don't recall reading anyone doing 10k on a 6.0.

Most people running dino oil (either 15w-40 or 10w-30) do their changes between 3k miles and 5k miles. Doing 7500 miles or more on dino oil isn't wise.

That right there is your extended interval, you get around 2000-2500 more miles out of a change compared to dino oil. The costs pretty much equal out and your motor has better oil in it.

As an aside, my truck runs very well on the 0w-40 I use over the winter and throws a fit every time I put 5w-40 back in for the summer. I might just stick to the 0w-40 for the sake of keeping the beast tame.

 

Canadian mind, if u don't mind. What would you say your summer temperatures are?