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Turbo Emission Vacuum Harness Connection Line with Wastegate Boost Solenoid

956 views 22 replies 4 participants last post by  bea_rolf@fidibusteam.com  
#1 ·
Hi everybody. Hope someone can help.
Today we lost complete power driving on highway.
We hardly made it to a turbo mechanic, who detected first a big leak at the flange at turbo exhaust outlet due to missing screw at the flange.
Having corrected this, there was the power back for some seconds without engine light, after boost engine twice then light came back and power went off again.
Mechanic said wastegate is stuck due to a faulty harness connector.
Unfortunately this part is not available here in Brazil, where we are travelling at the moment.
Mechanic wants to adapt an available sensor with a adapter to enforce wastegate to work.
Until able to import this part down here, can this be a temporary solution?
What is your opinion?
Thanks for any help.
 
#2 ·
I’m a little confused about your situation. It sounds like your wastegate is hanging open, causing all boost to bleed off prematurely, leading to a loss of power even after the leak at the downpipe was fixed.

If it’s just the wastegate that’s giving you troubles, I’d be inclined to think that unplugging and capping the red tube going to the actuator might help your problem by disabling the wastegate itself.

Alternately the wastegate actuator rod could be removed and tightened (shortened) by 6 or 7 turns, effectively holding the wastegate closed and therefore remedying your problem.

I have no idea if the aftermarket part would or could work. There’s just too many variables to say, but I’m leaning towards “no”.
 
#3 ·
What BossofBBQ said. The wastegate is normally held closed by a spring and boost pressure thru the solenoid and the pressure line. Taking the line off removes the boost pressure and tends to keep the wastegate closed longer. But if it's stuck open, then you'll need to free it up.
Others have confused the wastegate with the Exhaust Backpressure Valve. That will cause a loss of power if it's stuck shut. The solenoid in the turbo pedestal admits oil into the piston to close the backpressure valve when the PCM commands it. That can be disconnected and wired open as well. It's only used for warming the engine when it's real cold out. Probably not needed at all in Brazil.
 
#4 ·
Today mechanic found out that the diesel in Brazil which is Biodiesel is very bad for this engine and has damaged somehow the injection system.
What can be done?
Wastgate problem is temporarily eliminated with the adapted sensor. It is working.
 
#5 ·
Biodiesel is actually fairly good for a diesel engine. The problem with it is that it is a very good solvent that will clean everything that it comes into contact with. There are even owners who run it full strength.

Here in the US there are states that require a mix of around 5% of biodiesel with diesel, it's their way of trying to clean things up.
 
#6 ·
Today mechanic found out that the diesel in Brazil which is Biodiesel is very bad for this engine and has damaged somehow the injection system.
What can be done?
Wastgate problem is temporarily eliminated with the adapted sensor. It is working.
Biodiesel is actually fairly good for a diesel engine. The problem with it is that it is a very good solvent that will clean everything that it comes into contact with. There are even owners who run it full strength.

Here in the US there are states that require a mix of around 5% of biodiesel with diesel, it's their way of trying to clean things up.

In Brazil 30% !!!
 
#7 ·
I can't see how biodiesel would harm a 7.3L injection system. Unless other contaminants got into the fuel system, biodiesel itself would be fine.
 
#8 ·
Mechanic closed and fixed the valve.
But still it does not run smoothly, no complete power.
Would you recommend to buy a new complete turbo? Which could you recommend?
 
#9 · (Edited)
Sorry to hear you are still having issues.

I don't think a new turbo is needed. The Garrett GTP-38 turbo found in all 1999.5-2003 7.3L engines is rebuildable, and kits are readily available.
Is the engine running rough? Is there a lot of smoke out of the tailpipe?

Starting with simple things first, I would suspect a clogged fuel filter. That can starve the engine of fuel, leading to low power and a rough idle.
 
#12 · (Edited)
Do you have a way to read codes and/or get PERDEL readings? This will likely tell you if you have an injector issue.

But, with the mileage that you have, and given that you have been running 30% biodiesel, I would check the fuel filter first. It's cheap and easy to replace.
 
#13 ·
especially in low gears and idling it is rough.
With the wastgate closed it is some better.
When starting engine cold it is worse.
Engine light still on.
 
#14 ·
#18 ·
how many miles can we drive with this problem without damaging engine? We need to quit Brazil before the 20 july due to expiring visa and Brazilian temporary vehicle admission.
There are 722 km to the border to Paraguay.
 
#19 ·
Do an Injector Buzz test, which will cause the IDM to cough up the codes in it that a P1316 indicates. It could be as simple as a wiring issue to the injectors or a harness that's shorting out on the valve cover.
 
#20 ·
GOOD NEWS
Today another mechanic could repair the UVHC at the drivers side which were loose and 3 injectors therefore were not working anymore.
We had the repair kit with us!!! It is the kit which Ford had developped years ago due to this common problem on these connectors.
Engine is running smoothly now. Power is back.
One doubt we have, concerning the turbo:
As the turbo mechanic had closed the valve by screwing the wastgate arm and disconnected the red tube in order to have little more power before repairing engines UVHC, has this to be returned back and reconnected?
(We dont have the new connector yet!)
 
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#22 ·
Glad the issues have been resolved!

As long as you have a way to monitor boost levels, it shouldn't hurt anything to leave the red tube unplugged, and the actuator rod shortened.

I have mine that way, but I have a boost gauge to keep an eye on things. I've never seen above 24 PSI. I believe a good, safe limit for the stock GTP-38 turbo is 25 PSI.