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Upfitter switch to control trailer marker lights

13K views 24 replies 15 participants last post by  DRKnecht  
#1 ·
I am looking for directions. On my '12 F350 6.7, lI want to use an upfitter switch to control the marker lights on my trailer. I have tried to search, but can't find specific instructions - just mentions of guys that have done it.

I want to get this done as painlessly as possibly and not hack up a bunch of wiring harnesses.

Can anybody help????

Chuck
 
#22 ·
The other added benefit of doing this (which I did years ago) is the running light pin does not stay live all the time when the lights are on and your not towing so if you live in the corrosion belt, that pin won't corrode nearly as fast when it's not live in the salt water, snow, etc.

I also have a second switch I can flip when the truck is off leaving just the TT lights on. I do that if the tail is hanging out further than I would like into traffic such entrances to certain gas bars while I am fueling. People are dumb....and we let them drive, so I want my ass covered if they run into the back of my trailer.
 
#19 ·
If you come up with a working model, let me know. I work in the service department at an RV dealer, and we could market them as an option.


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#17 ·
All you need is a relay that has a normally closed contact. Then cut into the trailer lamp circuit and wire that to the relay with the closed contact. Then run the coil power for the relay to the upfitter switch of your choice. When you apply power to the relay the lights will go off and when you turn the power off they will come back on.
 
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#24 ·
That is how would do it. I would set it up to leave the factory functionality and turn off the trailer lights by powering the relay when turned on to open the contacts.
 
#18 ·
Hahaha, this would be great.
 
#14 · (Edited)
If your driving with headlights and running lights on (2 oclock position) and you switch to any other position your headlights go out.

So in order to flash the running lights you would have to go from 2 oclock to 12 oclock and back to 2 oclock , consequently flashing your headlights and running lights


I thought the OBS trucks were essentially the same operation:
position "0" (knob all the way in) - all lights off
position "1" (knob pulled one click out) running lights on, headlights off
position "2" (knob pulled two clicks out) running lights and headlights on

therefore you would also have to flash your headlights in order to flash your running lights....


(Im talking about driving at night, when you have your headlights and running lights on. Hence why I am saying you cannot flash your running lights independent of your headlights)
 
#16 ·
NOW YOU tell me that it's NIGHT TIME that you want to do this...I don't pull my trailer at night so....
 
#13 ·
So if you turn your dial to the 1o'clock position, you can't turn it back to 11 or12 o'clock without going to 2 o'clock first? I have the old pull knob with detents.


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#12 · (Edited)
IIRC since 99, the ford trucks multifunction headlight switch doesn't allow you to cycle the running lights without cycling the headlights.

11 o'clock position: "auto"
12 o'clock: all lights off
1 o'clock: running lights on
2 o'clock: headlights and running lights on

Pull switch out for fog lights.
 
#11 ·
Doesn't the headlight switch have two positions? Mine does, so I don't have to cycle the headlamps.

I have found that the people who take the time to give you an all clear to move over, understand pretty much any thing as a thank-you.


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#9 ·
Since you have to move your hand and flip a switch, why not just use the headlight switch? Maybe it's just me, but it seems like you could use the up fitter switches for something more important, since the ability to cycle your marker lights is "built in". I use the brake control or headlight switch myself.


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#10 · (Edited)
Since you have to move your hand and flip a switch, why not just use the headlight switch? Maybe it's just me, but it seems like you could use the up fitter switches for something more important, since the ability to cycle your marker lights is "built in". I use the brake control or headlight switch myself.


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Because that requires you to cycle off your headlights also, which pisses off the drivers ahead of you and is borderline dangerous

Using the brake controller only flashes your brake lights, insinuating that you are braking after you have just gotten over in front of the driver behind you.... also annoying


But obviously these are mostly my personal opinions....
 
#8 · (Edited)
That said you probably want a relay to turn off the power to the trailer light. This way you won't find yourself accidently driving down the road without trailer lights if you forget to turn on the switch.

Doing a quick search I found an example for shutting off an electric fan for water crossings:
Relay Bypass

Eric

I'm not sure how this would alleviate the problem? Couldn't one just as easy leave the upfitter switch in the "on" position (which in this case would turn off the lights)?

In order for this to achieve the the extra safety factor, you would need to use a momentary switch with the relay set up: press and hold will make the lights go out, release and the lights come back on (this is how big trucks are set up).


P.S. I have the my trailer running lights connected to my #1 upfitter. I haven't forgotten to turn my trailer lights on yet ( I probably will now though) ! :headbang:

The wire you want to tie into is found under the fuse box under the hood. Removing the drivers side inner fender well is necessary to gain access. You want to intercept the wire that feeds the control side of the trailer running light relay (so that the current feeding the trailer lights still runs through the fuse box and trailer relay, not the upfitter switch) it should be a yellow with blue tracer.
 
#6 ·
I just use the brake controller, it will turn the brake lights on. Just push the switch until it begins to turn on, you won't trigger the brakes themselves (enough to matter anyway) and can flash the lights.

Or get all cool with an upfitter, but either says "thanks".
 
#2 ·
You just need to run the wire from the switch back to the appropriate pin on your trailer jack. You didnt' say if it was 7 pin or 4, but we'll say 7 for sake of argument.

Follow this diagram, and just run the output of your switch to pin 3, and you're all set:
http://www.etrailer.com/Merchant2/graphics/00000001/pics/f/a/faq043_ss_500.jpg

I don't know the amperage draw of your marker lights, so just make sure you don't overload a lower-rated switch.