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Vacuum pulse solenoid

3.6K views 13 replies 4 participants last post by  vick67  
#1 ·
By reading the previous threads from DieselStop I've determined that my drivers side axle seal is shot and I possibly have a bad vacuum solenoid. I'm a litte confused on the solenoid reading though and would like some input before I have one shipped to me from the junkyard. With a vacuum gauge on the secondary side of the solenoid I engage 4x4 on the dash, transfer case motor engages and I see 15Hg vacuum for 45 seconds as expected. When switched back to 2x4 I see no vacuum at all although you can feel the solenoid energize. While I have read and respect the opinions of changing out to manuals after the OEM hubs go bad I am more interested in repairing the ESOF and would like some input lease. This has been a great site for me to fix my 2002 F250 7.3. This will be my third repair with the assistance of the people on here.:thumbsup:
 
#2 ·
Normal operation applies regulated disengagement vacuum of 5.8-7.3 in-Hg for 15 seconds and then drops to 0 in-Hg. I assume you are waiting more than a minute before switching from 4x4 to 2x4. I am not sure the 4x4 module is programmed to allow fast switching back and forth.

Griz
 
#3 ·
Griz, No I did not wait for any amount of time to speak of. I will try this tonight after work and see. I do feel what seems to be the solenoid energizing though. I'll give some feedback later. I'll look through the threads and try to find the one on the vacuum wiring harness to see what lead is energized and when and test with a meter to check module output. Thanks.
 
#5 ·
To tell you the truth...I haven't seen a 4x4 module go bad but if the solenoid you are getting from the wrecking yard isn't too expensive I would try that first. New solenoids cost around $75...not cheap. Have you removed the electrical connector from the solenoid yet? If not I would remove it and inspect the wiring connector/pins and reset the connector. Then retest. On mine the solenoid worked as described...45 second pulse of 10+ in-Hg and then returns to 0 in-Hg to lock and a 15 second pulse of 5-7 in-Hg to unlock then returns to 0 in-Hg. If that isn't working correctly I would replace that first. I don't have the wiring diagram to tell you what the signals are coming from the 4x4 module. I can imagine the 4x4 module is more expensive than the solenoid...lots. If it were me and the 4x4 module wasn't sending the correct signals to the solenoid and everything else in the 4x4 system worked. I would either just manually lock the factory hubs when needed or replace them with Warn or Mile Marker hubs. Just my two cents.

Griz
 
#6 ·
You don't want to be messing with the 4x4 module - on a 99-01 truck that's called the GEM (Genric Electronics Module). On an 02 and later, it's a specific 4WD control module.

The solenoid has two control coils in it, so you should check the resistance of each coil. They should be between 45 and 55 ohms. It's likely that the unlock coil on the solenoid has burnt out (and will show infinite resistance - open circuit).
 
#7 ·
Good info klhansen...do you know which contact pins go to which coil?

Griz
 
#10 ·
I checked the pins on the 4x4 solenoid today on my truck. Pin #2 is the common pin. I had 45 ohms between Pin #2 and #1. And a little higher between Pin #2 and #3.

Griz
 
#11 ·
It turns out that the vacuum solenoid problem was self inflicted. Being curious to how it was built I had taken the white cover off of the top a few days ago. Inside there is a white foam piece and between it and the disengage port is a small disc acting like a check i guess. Apparently I had it out of position when reassembly leaving it wide open and causing a vacuum leak. I also checked the resistance and found 49 ohms between pins 1 & 2 and had 62 ohms between 2 & 3. I appreciate the help but do apologize for this type of problem. By the way the best price for that part in my area was $88 ranging up to $98.:shinner:
 
#12 ·