Pour water on the IPR solenoid when it’s hot and wont start. If it will start after that rapid cool down, you have an answer.


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BINGO RT!

Took your suggestion, but used cold air in place of water. After it got hot and died no start again. Cooled the IPR for two minutes and presto it started right up. Picked up a new IPR from International dealer and problem fixed. BTW, I filled my shop vac with ice packs and switched it to blow ajr and was able to get nice cold air.

Thanks again.

 

That’s great. Glad it worked.


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After lots of searching not sure what to do. Truck has developed a temp sensitive issue.

A few days ago started truck and let it warm up about 5 minutes, headed into town. About 8-10 miles down the road truck suddenly dies, like turning off key. Tried to restart, no start, and no tach. Turns over good, oil level good, engine temp normal. Outdoor temp about 75F. Since no tach I swap the CPS with spare. 15 minutes later still no start, and still no tach. Called for a tow.

Truck sat a couple of hours, checked fuses, etc. Tried to start and it starts and run fine. I assume pulling and re-inserting fuses, etc. must have been it. Next day head out again, about 10-12 miles and back home. Left truck running went in house and about 3 minutes later truck suddenly dies, and no start again. I just let it sit a few hours, did nothing, tried to start and it starts and runs fine.

Today I just started the truck, let it idle for say 30 minutes and it dies. Then no start until it cools down.

Since this truck is 2000 I assume that no tach means bad CPS, or CPS circuit. But now two different CPS sensors behave the same, so maybe the CPS pigtail.?? I am sure it's not the CPS since the "cold" one I swapped on the road side did not fix the no start.

I am stumped with this no tach symptom.

I have read that the IPR can get temperature sensitive, but the no tach is confusing me.

Any ideas.??

I’m having same dying issue with my 2000 7.3 could it b same issue if not any suggestions

 

Try cooling off the IPR coil like suggested above. If that works, you know what the issue is.
It doesn't do any good for us to suggest other things before you try that, especially since you provided little info on actual symptoms.

 

If it happens only when the oil is up to temp after a cold start, it’s most likely grooving between the ports on the face of your brass valve plate ports in your high pressure pump.
On cold start after a cold soak, the engine oil is thicker then at normal operating temp.
The pump is charged, pushing oil into a port on that brass valve plate. The rotator group resembles a revolver cartridge cylinder. It holds pistons with bass ends on them that are free swiveling within itself. Behind it is a spring and the swash plate. The spring forces the rotator group against the valve plate. The rotator group conversely is pushed back against the swash plate. A swash plate is either set at a fixed angle ( 7.3 are) OR are movable to control flow rate or direction of flow ( forward/ reverse).
As the rotator group rotates, the pistons within the group become a pump as the rotator group rotates with its piston’s slippers running against an angle. They push oil into the exit port in the valve plate. Minor grooving .001MAX at that will cause even warmed oil to push out from from face of rotator group and exit port in valve plate, NOT making it to its happy home, all pressurized in the heads’ oil rail and that’s just a crying shame!
If that charges and in’s as should after vehicle cold soak and then throws a tantrum, check IPR nut, try chilling IPR. To success. Replace your pump.

 

Nick, How many HPOP failures have you seen? The experience here on TheDieselStop is that they're not that frequent.

Even leaking injector o-rings are more common than HPOP failures, and could cause the problem as well as the oil heats up, making the leaks worse.

Besides that, the HPOP is more expensive than about any other part, so it's a better approach to fully troubleshoot before starting to swap parts.

 

To answer your question with hope of not coming across in a negative way as I hold you and your knowledge with respect. With that being said.. Many and counting. I do diesel and hydraulics full time for a living. Have been for decades. From trucks to AG to industrial equip.
I did not note OP stating cross contamination or loss of fluid. I did not note OP stating grey/ white smoke under load nor cessation after said condition and or when said condition occurs and then the described smoke manifests it self after an abrupt drop in rpm, manipulated by the driver but perhaps I missed something in skimming over an OP’s original post. It’s not unlike me to do as such as most are as long as my walk through and I tend to skim through for pertinent and go from there but perhaps I missed a tidbit in stated symptoms and conditions. You do this full time. You don’t have a filter for OP original post, where as I, when here, have my filter of blocking out certain customer’s input and docs on what I pick up on.
Perhaps this is the case. I have not gone back and reread the OP’s original writing, so with that, I defer to your guidance of this man with my full respect to you.

 

AND, AND, AND…. Knowing me.. At times, I can’t let go.
I have seen so so many people go down the “ oring rabbit hole”. It’s a rabbit to chase if it fits all around but if not one can spend huge amounts of time and a few bucks. With less then the cost of the oil to change after pulling injectors, one can make a pu,p deadhead rig. Have it ready. Get that oil hot, let it die. Install rig while hot. Oil pressure will most likely be in the 200 psi. range. Take it off. Let it cool and pressure fires that puppy back up.
This of course is after following a oring failure diagnosis flow chart before starting any related repair.
Ok…Carry on😉

 

Nick
My reply was to 7.3 Trouble who stated he was having the "same problem" without much detail. I would guess that the OP has figured his issue out.

I agree with what you're saying about doing the correct diagnosis and troubleshooting. I got the impression from your post that you were advocating just changing the HPOP, but I understand that you wouldn't just do that without checking for the actual cause first.

Regards, Kevin

 

Well, from a diagnostic progression perspective .... when an event produces SYMPTOMS that have multiple possibilities .... it is best diagnostic practice to start the prooving procedure with the most common ..... or where it can be done ...... with the possibility (s) that can be proven or disproven with the least or no disassembly cheaply ..... then go incrementally to the more difficult, expensive and further down the possibility list.
It seems human nature to equate/gamble the difficulty that a problem causes, shut down to limp on, to the extremity of the problem. That emotional assumption and inclination to dig the hole from bottom up is common, I see it quite frequently.
Why? because once one has invested time, money and exposure in the big difficult fix its difficult to go back to the simple and cheap. By that point the problem has an ego component - fence to high to see clearly over.

 

I agree to start with the most common but not go too deep without checking other, inexpensively and in a short time frame.

 

How goes this job?
Has OP started a flow chart with:
Diagnostic time/ chasing appropriate symptoms?
Material costs
Labor time?

 

Might want to read what the OP actually did, sucessfully, in June of 2020. Then read what a follow on poster, recent a year and a half later, asked about similar issues which led to this discussion. I believe that anyone can discern that it has become a negative topic about diagnostic contention and personality style, not an actual diagnosis that can help anyone needing help, or that kind of help.

 

Let me help you boys out.
Was it smoking under load before it shut off?
Did it restart once cool?
Was correct IPR function verified?
No?
Beat pump. Period.
Can’t buy new? Pull the snap ring out of its back. Pull the rotator group. Pull the valve plate. Put 1200 grit on the glass patio table and start refacing it. Tell Jeff or Bob at Diesel Orings that you need the oring for the back of that pump.
Some of y’all make it almost painful dealin’ with y’all. My word!