I am a little confused as to the use of the fleetguard test strips. I have the sample from my radiator, but the colors of the sample show that the first (end of the strip) near the A B colors and the other two pads were almost clear. Does this mean I'm ok or is the sca level ok. Coolant came out a really dirty green and I think its time to do a change. We have had 110F plus days here in phoenix for at least two weeks now and a good cooling system is a must. Any help would be appreciated.
boulder
Assuming you have a 2002 or older truck.........
Sounds like you need a little additive. Probably 2-3 bottles. But from what you said, sounds like you should flush it completely. One of the test pads is for the temperature protection, like protected to -30 degrees. The other 2 you must go across and up to determine your SCA levels. If they are both close to clear, you are low on your SCA levels. If you flush the system, now is the time to determine whether you will use the original type of coolant requiring the coolant additive or the newer and more controversial coolant in the newer trucks that doesn't require additive. I just did mine last winter and decided to stay with the original......and continue to monitor the SCA levels. I'm anal about my truck so I always stay on top of things like this. Others will likely tell you to use the newer coolant, and that is up to you. You need to decide what you feel good about.
Read this under the cooling system section and you will find everything you would ever need to know about flushing your system and what coolant to use. Lots of opinions but a dude named "Smokey" has a great write up on doing a flush the right way. Plan on a trip to Wally World for a shopping cart load of distilled water........read the section and you'll know what I mean.
Sounds like you need a little additive. Probably 2-3 bottles. But from what you said, sounds like you should flush it completely. One of the test pads is for the temperature protection, like protected to -30 degrees. The other 2 you must go across and up to determine your SCA levels. If they are both close to clear, you are low on your SCA levels. If you flush the system, now is the time to determine whether you will use the original type of coolant requiring the coolant additive or the newer and more controversial coolant in the newer trucks that doesn't require additive. I just did mine last winter and decided to stay with the original......and continue to monitor the SCA levels. I'm anal about my truck so I always stay on top of things like this. Others will likely tell you to use the newer coolant, and that is up to you. You need to decide what you feel good about.
Read this under the cooling system section and you will find everything you would ever need to know about flushing your system and what coolant to use. Lots of opinions but a dude named "Smokey" has a great write up on doing a flush the right way. Plan on a trip to Wally World for a shopping cart load of distilled water........read the section and you'll know what I mean.
[ QUOTE ]
I am a little confused as to the use of the fleetguard test strips. I have the sample from my radiator, but the colors of the sample show that the first (end of the strip) near the A B colors and the other two pads were almost clear. Does this mean I'm ok or is the sca level ok.
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You're using Fleetguard 3-way Coolant Test Strips?
The test strips are fresh? Not expired? Not too old?
You followed the instructions to test the coolant with the sample at the right temperature?
If so, then your cooling system is very low on SCA. A quick fix would be to add one pint of SCA, then check the SCA level again after driving a few miles.
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Coolant came out a really dirty green and I think its time to do a change.
[/ QUOTE ]
Sounds like it. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/warmsmile.gif
Click here for a good "how to" do it right.
I am a little confused as to the use of the fleetguard test strips. I have the sample from my radiator, but the colors of the sample show that the first (end of the strip) near the A B colors and the other two pads were almost clear. Does this mean I'm ok or is the sca level ok.
[/ QUOTE ]
You're using Fleetguard 3-way Coolant Test Strips?
The test strips are fresh? Not expired? Not too old?
You followed the instructions to test the coolant with the sample at the right temperature?
If so, then your cooling system is very low on SCA. A quick fix would be to add one pint of SCA, then check the SCA level again after driving a few miles.
[ QUOTE ]
Coolant came out a really dirty green and I think its time to do a change.
[/ QUOTE ]
Sounds like it. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/warmsmile.gif
Click here for a good "how to" do it right.
Actually I did not have the instructions and unfortunately the temperature of the sample was a little high. Outside temps here in Phoenix yesterday were 116F. what is the correct sample temp? The strips are due to expire in august. I think I will dump a bottle of sca into the truck tonight and try to change it out this weekend. Seems like a bit of a waste, but I would rather take any precautions possible as soon as possible. How long does the fluid change typically take?
The proper temp to test the coolant is ambient temp......meaning after the truck has completely cooled off. Take the sample from the drain in the bottom of the radiator early in the morning before driving the truck. Bring it inside and let it come to normal temp. Outside temps have nothing to do with it.
If the strips expire in August, you should be fine.
Dumping a bottle in with coolant that looks like yours is a waste. Just flush it soon and you will be OK. Another day or two isn't likely to make a difference. If you are going to switch to the new coolant and you have some additive laying around, then go ahead and use it until the flush. But if you are staying with the original green then you will be needing about 3 bottles of the additive, maybe 4.
Fluid change could take a few hours if done correctly........multiple flushes with distilled water and driving the truck between flushes.
Read the link Smokey listed if you haven't already.
If the strips expire in August, you should be fine.
Dumping a bottle in with coolant that looks like yours is a waste. Just flush it soon and you will be OK. Another day or two isn't likely to make a difference. If you are going to switch to the new coolant and you have some additive laying around, then go ahead and use it until the flush. But if you are staying with the original green then you will be needing about 3 bottles of the additive, maybe 4.
Fluid change could take a few hours if done correctly........multiple flushes with distilled water and driving the truck between flushes.
Read the link Smokey listed if you haven't already.
Well after much research on this site and the endless discussions on coolant types and what to replace, I will do this change with the green coolant, but I would like to put a filter on the system. Any recommendations on filter types and sellers of said filters. I would prefer to use one of this sites sponsors. Any suggestions? Also once I buy a filter where do I get replacement filters? Am I tied into whomever I buy it from for replacement filters?
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Any recommendations on filter types and sellers of said filters. I would prefer to use one of this sites sponsors. Any suggestions?
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I ordered mine from http://www.dieselsite.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=8
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Also once I buy a filter where do I get replacement filters? Am I tied into whomever I buy it from for replacement filters?
[/ QUOTE ]
Spin-on coolant filters are quite common, so some auto parts stores and almost all big-truck parts stores carry them. The coolant filter install kit Bob sells uses a normal spin-on coolant filter, so you can buy them lots of places. I recently bought a WIX coolant filter from my local no-name auto parts store. But if you prefer you can also order additional filters from Bob or from one of several of the other sponsors of TheDieselStop.
The filter elements come in two basic types. Plain ole filter, or pre-charged with SCA. Most big truckers that still use green coolant with SCA maintain their coolant at near the minimum SCA concentration, then use a pre-charged coolant filter. The pre-charged filter releases just about the same amount of SCA as the engine eats up during normal driving, so they are able to maintain the SCA level at close to 1.3 to 1.5 SCA units per gallon by simply changing the coolant filter every year or so.
Any recommendations on filter types and sellers of said filters. I would prefer to use one of this sites sponsors. Any suggestions?
[/ QUOTE ]
I ordered mine from http://www.dieselsite.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=8
[ QUOTE ]
Also once I buy a filter where do I get replacement filters? Am I tied into whomever I buy it from for replacement filters?
[/ QUOTE ]
Spin-on coolant filters are quite common, so some auto parts stores and almost all big-truck parts stores carry them. The coolant filter install kit Bob sells uses a normal spin-on coolant filter, so you can buy them lots of places. I recently bought a WIX coolant filter from my local no-name auto parts store. But if you prefer you can also order additional filters from Bob or from one of several of the other sponsors of TheDieselStop.
The filter elements come in two basic types. Plain ole filter, or pre-charged with SCA. Most big truckers that still use green coolant with SCA maintain their coolant at near the minimum SCA concentration, then use a pre-charged coolant filter. The pre-charged filter releases just about the same amount of SCA as the engine eats up during normal driving, so they are able to maintain the SCA level at close to 1.3 to 1.5 SCA units per gallon by simply changing the coolant filter every year or so.
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what is the correct sample temp?
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50º to 130º F.
So it sounds like you were okay if you tested the "cold" coolant at 116º. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/warmsmile.gif
[ QUOTE ]
How long does the fluid change typically take?
[/ QUOTE ]
After you finish running around to gather up the antifreeze, distilled water, Prestone flush kit, kiddie pool, 5-gallon bucket, tools such as water pump plyers, screwdrivers and socket set, garden hose, etc., plus new radiator hoses and thermostat if you change those, then it takes only a couple of hours if you are efficient. Assuming you don't have any problems removing the thermostat and/or radiator hose(s) and buttoning it all up after you're done. I'm not efficient, and I have only one good hand, so it takes me a little longer. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif
what is the correct sample temp?
[/ QUOTE ]
50º to 130º F.
So it sounds like you were okay if you tested the "cold" coolant at 116º. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/warmsmile.gif
[ QUOTE ]
How long does the fluid change typically take?
[/ QUOTE ]
After you finish running around to gather up the antifreeze, distilled water, Prestone flush kit, kiddie pool, 5-gallon bucket, tools such as water pump plyers, screwdrivers and socket set, garden hose, etc., plus new radiator hoses and thermostat if you change those, then it takes only a couple of hours if you are efficient. Assuming you don't have any problems removing the thermostat and/or radiator hose(s) and buttoning it all up after you're done. I'm not efficient, and I have only one good hand, so it takes me a little longer. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif
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