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Ran for a minute, died, now won't start

3.3K views 6 replies 5 participants last post by  Flooringit  
#1 ·
Yesterday morning, my '02 F250 started, ran for a minute, then died like I turned the key off. Now, it won't start. Glow plug light never turns off. Brand new batteries. I'm new to this, so pardon the ignorance, but I don't hear the normal buzzing noise from the HPOP or whatever it is that I normally hear when I turn key to ON position.
It's stuck out at the lake. Any ideas what I might could check or have checked before I have to have it towed? I plugged in the block heater and will go back and see if it will start after work.
 
#2 · (Edited)
Look at the 30 amp fuse in the under dash fuse block.
It will be the 30 amp fuse on the lower right side, if it's blown, do the following.

Replace the fuse and then pop the hood, pull the cover off that covers the fuel filter housing. Look behind the fuel filter housing for a connector (bottom Right Side, Black Connector I think), pull this connector off and set it to the side where it won't ground out. That goes to your Fuel Bowl Heater, which is shorting out and blowing the fuse.

It can be driven at this point if it's not really cold out.

Then if you don't have one, this is a great excuse to buy a 1/4" Air Ratchet and get a #20 Torx socket, shorter the better. Then go to your Ford or International dealer and get a Fuel Bowl Heater and replace it.
While you are at it get the O-Rings for the Fuel Filter Drain, (Link To O-Ring List Powerstroke O-Ring Chart ) because when you open it to drain the fuel bowl, it's going to keep dripping and will need to be replaced.

Wayne B
 
#3 ·
Couple things to check.

Make sure it's getting fuel. Open the fuel drain valve and turn the key on. You should hear the fuel pump running and a nice healthy stream coming out of the drain.

Try swapping out the CPS. '02s can't use the "does the tach move when cranking" trick.

The WTS light staying on is the subject of a TSB for the '02 model year. Not sure that it would cause a no-start, or kill the engine after running.

The "died like you turned off the key" points away from a fuel issue, as that would usually cause sputtering before it dies. The CPS or other electrical issue would be higher on my list.

Good luck

on edit: Wayne - he said the WTS was staying on, so that would rule out the fuel heater/PCM relay fuse. If it was popped, he wouldn't get a WTS light.
 
#5 ·
I had similar problem, ran, quit and blowing the same 30 amp fuse. I unplugged the fuel heater, still blwoing fuses. So I had my brother come over and we switched out Injector Drive Module. Started fine, didnt blow fuses, still had the fuel heater unplugged. Tried my IDM again and started, and stalled right out. So, it could be your IDM and not just the fuel heater, they run off the same fuse.
 
#6 ·
The IDM doesn't run off the fuel heater fuse, and strictly speaking, neither does the PCM. That circuit controls the PCM Power relay, IDM Power relay, and the wastegate solenoid in addition to the fuel heater.

There's no way a bad IDM will cause the fuse on the control side of the relay to blow. The switched terminals on the IDM power relay has it's own fuse, and if the IDM were shorted out, THAT fuse would blow, NOT the fuel heater fuse. The fuel heater fuse is isolated from the IDM and PCM power circuits by the relay.