His claims are fruitless, wish you were closer! I've done about 8 ww installs and would be glad to help you out. PM me if you want step by step instructions and I'd be glad to give them.

 

Can you email me the instructions for my 1996 F250 automatic 4x4 n2kpi@yahoo.com

 

The wicked wheel is supposed to be less effective than your current wheel. I was going to put one in until I researched it more. I tow and I wanted to eliminate surge, I found out that the ATS compressor housing is a better mod. Yes it costs more $430 but allows for a true 4" inlet. The mechanic is smoking crack! The early 99's had a factory wheel that is basically a wicked wheel.

 

And the '94-'97 too! same as the early '99 and all the wicked wheels. I talked to my local ford dealer when the '99.5 and later models came out, and he seemed to think that the "noise" produced by the dual staged vanes was the main reason for ford having garrett/honeywell make the change. There was guys putting '94-early '99 wheels on late models long before the "wicked wheel" was marketed. Who woulda thunk it! :lol:

 

Yep, the people who complained about the noise probably didn't like black smoke out of the tailpipe either.

 

remember most dealership and independent shop mechanics are parts changers not high performance-fab techs that comprehend engine and suspension modifications.

 

All I have read about people installing a ww on this site states that they lose 2 or more pounds of boost but gain whistle. I would go for a real upgrade like a new housing with a four inch ported intake. ATS is pricey. ITP diesel sells another one for a little less money.

 

The wicked wheel helps eliminate surge. That is the biggest reason for installing. If you don't tow much or have not ever "experienced" surge you probably don't need one. If looking for power and performance buy a ported housing. $400 is way cheaper than a failed turbo and damaged 7.3L. Plus most guys will spend way more money on a set of wheels that do nothing for performance!

 

I just did the WW install on two different trucks and it did eliminate surge and seemed to boost performance especially on the truck that had a 50hp tune, 6637 filter, and 4" exhaust.

 

woodnthings... are you saying that the ww has the potential to fail and ruin the turbo?

 

No, I am saying surge ruins turbos. The wicked wheel helps surge where the ported housings pretty much eliminate it for a slightly modified truck (tuner,intake,exhaust). The WW is often used as a cheaper band aid for surge. Most will say they lose boost when installing one. Usually 2-3 psi depending on the truck. I just think @ $400 give or take a ported compressor housing is better for the battle against surge. Obviously an upgraded turbo is better, something like a GTP38R or similar but most people have a tough time shelling out up to $2k on a new turbo. It was also stated that the OEM turbos previous to mid year 99 had the equivalent to the WW from the factory. They are all good turbos, just make a little more noise that the mid 99's to 03 versions.

I was looking at getting a WW for mine, until I found most people show a boost loss due to inefficency. The ported housings just make more since, and I plan on getting one soon.

 

correct me if im wrong, but I understand that the ported shroud is only really needed by a small percentage of surge victims... those who experience surge while towing heavy loads through hilly country. i rarely tow, and if i do, its a max weight of about 7k over the flat ground here in indiana.

 

The ported shroud has a 4" inlet where the stocker has a 3", That is primarily how they eliminate surge. More air coming in means less cavitation at the turbo blades under heavy loads (pulling lots of air, not necessarily towing loads). The WW has every other blade at a different height, in doing this the air has less of a chance getting disrupted when entering the turbo. This is where in inefficiency of the WW comes into play. That is why most guys see a 2-3 psi loss. The reason we all put intakes, exhaust, and tuners on our trucks is for better performance. If you put a BHAF in and still only have the stock turbo set-up you now have a restrictor in the flow. The compressor housing helps open the restriction and with the WW you still have the restriction you just have the wheel fins compensate to not move as much air.

The WW is a fine product and works to help surge. If you don't tow and you don't pull hills you probably don't need either the WW or the compressor housing.

 

There are two differences between the stock wheel and the splitter style you guys are calling a wicked wheel. The splitter style will hold more pressure at the same flow. The splitter style wheel makes more noise.

 

I installed a x-wheel yesterday. Though I haven't hooked on to the trailer yet, I have noticed a difference in power between the 2-3 and 3-4 shifts. It used to have bad turbo stall between shifts that has been eliminated. I'm hoping it cures my surge when pulling my trailer as well. Time will tell I guess. It was a very easy intall as well, under an hour while still looking after my 5 & 1 1/2 year old kids.

 

I installed a x-wheel yesterday. Though I haven't hooked on to the trailer yet, I have noticed a difference in power between the 2-3 and 3-4 shifts. It used to have bad turbo stall between shifts that has been eliminated. I'm hoping it cures my surge when pulling my trailer as well. Time will tell I guess. It was a very easy intall as well, under an hour while still looking after my 5 & 1 1/2 year old kids.

I guess you bought your x wheel a while ago cause, I bought an x wheel a week ago hoping to have it today, called and they said it was on back order till the end of the month cancelled oreder and got a wicked wheel. dieselsite had them in stock ready to ship.

 

I also just put in my wicked wheel this weekend and not all that hard thanks to all the advice on here and the video's on youtube. I did the wheel and my 4 inch exhaust is less that 4 hours. You will here the turbo more but its not that bad. The 4 inch exhaust from MRBP sound good and no drone. It could actually be a little louder. I am thinking about turning the muffler backwards.

I did notice more low end torque. I have not got my edge hooked up yet so I will see how it goes after that. I too had the terrible turbo surge before the change.

 

No, actually I called them 2-3 weeks ago and they told me they were on backorder until mid April. I called them last week and they said they had some comming in and at the time of my call, they had one on the shelf. I bought it right away. The guy I talked to said they were going out as fast as they were coming in. Guess my timing was right. I felt it was worth a shot for 67 bucks shipped.

 

Try Ron's turbo, that where I go mine which was off ebay. Fast shipping $85 shipped.

 

i run the ATS housing with the turbo master waste gate controller let me say its like having an aftermarket turbo. Tons more boost and a little bit more turbo whistle im gonna say its one of the best upgrades that i have done, now when im romping on it with the 100hp tune the turbo doesnt sound like its going to self destruct when it shifts:thup: when i first put on the waste gate controller though i hit 35psi of boost not good but it only happened once becuase i turned it down but it was so bad a$$ making that much boost hahaha

however the ATS housing is a pain to install only becuase of a bolt that is on the bottom very hard to tighten/loosen. but otherwise very easy

 

I have had a WW in my truck for a couple years, and tow a 10K lbs 5ver. It made a noticable improvement in power and completelty eliminated the surge I had before. In my mind it was a fairly cheap, easy fix with no negative effects.

 

Just put my wicked wheel in while fixing up pipe leaks so that may have had a little improvment also but my truck comes off the line with very little turbo lag seems to me It is working great.

 

Find a new mechanic, that guy is a muffinhead. There is nothing wrong with installing a WW...

 

I have had my WW and ATS installed for 50k miles now with no issues. I did lose boost but the sound between those two and a DIY intake is awesome. I did the WW first and surge didn't go away because as was said before, I tow 12k in Wyoming(hills) so I needed the ATS to completely cure it.

 

If I do decide to go with the ATS housing is there an advantage to using the WW with the ATS? or not?

 

When I had my 2002 7.3, I started with just the ATS housing and stock wheel. No more surge, period. I was curious about the WW and had my turbo totally rebuilt at 65k and had the rebuilder install the WW. I did notice a very slight loss of low end boost, but the mid-range was as good or better. The biggest thing was that damned whistle!! It sounded like a Kenworth in 8th gear!! Even though the ATS and stock wheel may do a little better, I kept the WW in there for another 125k w/o any problems at all. I have to say, that if you have over 50-60k on your engine/turbo, then just go get your turbo rebuilt and have the rebuilder add the ATS and WW at the same time. I would also recommend a Banks Bighead actuator, a non-EBV pedastal, and a non-EBV turbo plate, while you're at it.

 

Bringing this back up as I am almost here. So from what I read the older Ford wheels are as good as the WW2? Porting and getting the ATS housing also helps with surge. So now that it has been 5 years is anyone making this a package deal yet? I hope to pull my turbo before the winter hits so I can enjoy the power pulling snow chain trailers. Sometimes I am pulling 10000 pounds. It is spooky going down hill with ice and snow so I hate to also have the anxiety of pulling up hill too.

 

The ported shroud was to help with surge but from what I hear the ww2 will take care of that by itself. I have a XDP billet with a Barder's 360 bearing kit with a Applied Performance actuator set up for 25 psi. I love it.