OK, O rings are ordered from Guzzle. Also got a re-install kit for the turbo. Figured since I am going to be camping out, might as well pull the turbo and reseal the up pipes. just cant see 5 to 700 bucks for bellows. so doughnuts it is. I figure if I do it enough Something will break and give me an excuse to mount up an H2 or another route.
O....
Only smokes when cold now. I changed out the HPOP oil 3 times and it got better (less smoke) each time.
Parts are in the mail sould be here friday.
Now I need a garage it will fit in to do the work.
Have a good day all.
Todd...

 

Hey gottarace, I'm up towards Utica.
It sounds like your in for a set of o-rings. The best thing to do is set up a whole day for it. If it's cold out, start the engine for 15min or so to act as a giant handwarmer and dive in. When you go to start it up the first time, you will be glad you"re NOT in a closed garage. It's bad, and that's putting it mildly:lol:

 

Replacement O-rings for Ford Diesel Engines

Only $7.45 each set here - pull the rear injector on each side first and allow all the fluids to drain there. Use a vacuum pump or similar to evacuate the cylinder to the best of your ability. Pull all your glow plugs as well. When you get the injectors back together, with the glow plugs still out, rotate the engine over a few times by hand. Then crank it over a few times with the starter. Cover the heads with rags as all oil remaining in the cylinders is coming out through the glow plug holes. Reinstall glow plugs (new Beru / Motorcraft preferred - http://www.dieselorings.com/index.php?page=details&prod=154&cat=23&group=6 ) and start 'er up. It will smoke like a mosquito fogging truck for the first few miles, but you should be good to go after that.

 

O-rings run about $12/injector. You can get them from Ford, International, or other shops.

 

Where should I get a set of O rings?
And idea of a price? and guide of do's and don'ts to do the job?
expecting snow in a few days and with the 9' lift on 38's she wont fit in the garage unless I chain sawoff the top half the cab.
Thanks Bro....
Todd

 

RT,
I just changed the filter tonight. the mesh was black. I have only ran it about 100 miles since it starting missing. The smoke is blue..
noise??? none to think of. maybe a tick not sure?

 

RT,
I just changed the filter tonight. the mesh was black. I have only ran it about 100 miles since it starting missing. The smoke is blue..
noise??? none to think of. maybe a tick not sure?

I'd think o-rings, indicated by oil in the fuel filter, blue smoke (buring oil, which will burn just like fuel will).

 

What else will blacken a fuel filter?

 

Have you pulled the fuel filter? That's the easiest, cheapest, most definitive test. If you have oil backed up into the filter housing - there's no other way for it to have gotten there (unless you put it in your fuel tank).

What color is your smoke? Any noise? A cracked injector tip could also cause smoke and rough running, although it usually is extremely noisy as well.

 

OK a little back ground.
Truck was running great. Oil change week rolled around. Had cart full of oil and truck was next in line. Since I work at Kenworth and they run Delo 400. I decided to give it a go. I had FORGOT I tried it several years back and thuck didn't run right. pulled oil then and went back to T. Same thing again. started to miss and run bad. getting worse by the day. Ran it 2 weeks. Dumped it out last Thurs and put 15 4o T back in with a new K&N filter. In the process of changing out oil in HPOP now. pretty thick.
Misses HARD and smokes like and OLD chevy 350 with valve seals gone. as it warms up less smoke and miss not as hard.
New VC gaskets, glow plugs, UVCH, ICP new 2 years ago.
Where to go?????
ICP duty cycle 11% ICP 472.88 fuel pump duty cycle 100.01 turbo wastegate control 99.11
HELP....
TODD..

 

An o-ring leak won't necessarily cause a miss.

If the o-ring between the fuel gallery and oil gallery is leaking, the higher pressure oil will leak into the fuel gallery and back into the fuel filter bowl. That's what makes the filter black.

Another symptom of blown-out o-rings is hard starts when the engine is hot. What happens there is that the thinner oil leaks out either to the valve cover area or into the fuel gallery and can't get up to the required 500 psi for starting.

What you want to monitor with AE is ICP and IPR duty cycle. IPR duty cycle should be 14% when you turn the key on, and when you crank it, duty cycle should go up to no more than 35% and ICP jump up to 500 psi or more. When it starts, ICP should be around 450 psi and IPR duty cycle between 11-12%. If IPR duty cycle is much more than that, it would indicate either an injector o-ring leak or a bad IPR or HPOP. If you really feel like it, blocking off one head or the other and rerunning the test will tell you which head the leak is in. But if you find a leak, the best bet is to just change them all out.

 

Hey Tin what do you mean black fuel filter? I just changed out my lube finer with a fresh wix. And the screen was black not tan like the last filter I pulled. I ran the buzz test and all was good and loud. Ran the KOER and KOEO and all came back good. cylinder test failed #1 Friday.
I know I need up pipes fixed. donuts are blown out.

what should I check with the AE?
Hey where you at? I am in chillicothe
Todd

 

I just did the injector cup replacement on my '03 7.3L Excursion. And I would definitely hit all 8 injectors for seals. I have not done the postmortem to see which cup(s) were cracked but I'll bet it was one with a torn o-ring. I think 2 that were pulled out had torn O-Rings, and one was really bad.

The motor sounds a bit smoother after the job, so I'll guess it may help smooth idle a bit but not really a big difference other then diesel spraying out of my radiator :lol:

Sandy

 

The upper o-ring is easy enough, just pull the valve covers and fire it up- watching for any oil coming from the base of an injector. The lower o-rings are a little tricky, since you cannot physically see them. Symptoms would include excessive oil consumption, bluish smoke, and a black fuel filter. If it is more than just a little, observing a higher than normal IPR duty% would happen, and if it's real bad, you get an uncontrollable IPR code. As for picking exactly which one is bad, it really doesn't pay to try and do just one. You would be much better off doing all 8 since it's cheap, as far as parts for these things, but a pain in the keester. If you go ahead with it, make sure to read the posts on how to go about doing it and what to expect when trying to start it back up for the first time.